I know I’m a little late considering both London and Milan Fashion Week are over, but better late than never. Amirite?
Paying homage to the late 60’s and early 70’s culture of bohemian and handmade goods, Christopher Bailey’s collection for Burberry Prorsum saw smoky-eyed models clad in fringed capes/ponchos, patchwork suede boots, paisley and flower printed coats sent down the runway. I’m especially loving the floaty tiered dresses with low necks and black piping. Wear them with boots, and you’ll be festival-ready. And of course, Burberry’s signature trenches, updated with fringe. Totally something Pocahontas (which incidentally Malaika Firth would be perfect for) could rock don’t you think?
Christopher Kane was literally sex-on-the-runway. Embroideries of the male and female bodies in a lacy embrace outlined in black on a dress with dangling feet for a hem. A beautiful high-necked tulle piece tied at the waist with a single black string–inviting you to count the pairs of bare breasts–if you get close enough. Was he designing for a new generation of women unafraid to flaunt their sexual power, so much they wear it on their sleeve (or dress for that matter)? Other standout pieces were the velvet pantsuit, cut in a slouchy fit, and the red/blue/black ruffled dress. In other news, it’s now totally necessary to match your clothes, shoes, and handbag (see: image 16 and 21).
Set in a fictional 1950’s Parisian apartment, the Erdem girls walked the runway decked in rich fabrics; brocade, leather, chiffon, wool, lace, tweed, and shearling. A camel wool coat blended with emerald jacquard was especially attention-getting. A skilful transition of color from one fabric to the next, girls, this is how ombré should be done! Love the way Moralioglu used rich jewel tones to accentuate his visual, floral designs, decorated by errant ostrich feathers.
Jenny Packham’s elegant gowns are no stranger to the red carpet, but the essential pieces in her Fall collection were the simple, flirty, floor-length gowns in shades of milk chocolate and tangerine. A starlit-ombrè piece made the model look like she was dipped shoulders-first into a vat of glitter, which eventually trickled in ebbing concentrations down the train. IMO, Emma Stone would be a dazzling beacon of light on the red carpet dressed in it. The last eye-catching piece was a white top covered in evenly spaced-out pailettes, resembling giant bubble-wrap from far. Texture worked for this beautiful collection, giving it the dimension needed.
It wouldn’t be a Marques Almeida show without the frayed denim. Denim (in all colors of the rainbow) was everywhere. On the hips, over the shoulders, around the neck–great way to repurpose the extra denim you were left with after you massacre your old jeans with a scissors. Waste not want not! The asymmetrical hems, draping, and artful layering truly bring denim to a whole new level, and let’s not forget the Swarovski glitter for some shine. Hair is best left uncombed, bonus points for straggly bits obscuring your vision.
Drawing inspiration from blue-blooded, privileged English girls, Topshop’s Creative Director Kate Phelan gave traditional British references a modern upgrade. Thistle and dandelion prints meet PVC leather, thigh-high slits, and sheer lace to create the sweet but naughty collection. Blusher was applied with a heavy hand, low on the cheeks for a fresh flushed look. That luscious dual-tone fur coat makes me want to spend the day curled up in bed with it, and the corduroy sky-blue skirt suit which looks like it’s straight out of the 60’s, is calling my name. If I had it my way, the models would be marching down the runway to Gwen Stefani’s “Rich Girl”. Topshop hasn’t appealed to me in awhile, but this collection might just change that!
If you missed my NYFW FW15 recap, get involved here.